The Price of Bushmeat

Wildlife – including endangered species – flowed through a bushmeat market in Kumasi, Ghana, despite a hunting ban. The scale and conservation implications of the trade are under-documented and under-reported, but one estimate posits that Ghana's wildlife biomass has declined by 75% since the 1970s.

This project began accidentally. I was assigned to shoot a story about the potential risks of zoonotic disease transmission arising from the bushmeat trade. However, while those risks were readily apparent, it was the conservation dimensions of the business that struck me most forcefully.

A hunting ban was in force at the time, and grass cutters (greater cane rats) were the only legal quarry, yet animals of all descriptions flowed through the market with the obvious collusion of the officer responsible for enforcing the ban.

Bushmeat is a complex issue, and its nuances vary around the continent. For some people in West Africa, game meat is a delicacy or a healthy and natural diet option, worth the premium prices it commands in urban centres. In rural areas, it may be a necessary alternative protein source, and correlations have been shown between the price and availability of fish and the extent of hunting. Demand from the diaspora is known to fuel an illicit international trade, and while this is significant, its exact scope and extent remain unclear. There are international cultural factors that influence perceptions (for example, why is it “venison” in a London restaurant, but “bushmeat” when we refer to Africa?), as well as superstitions that surround some animals and their body parts. And then, of course, there are the pressures of population growth and habitat loss, and the spectre of corruption.

There is a dearth of current empirical data on the bushmeat trade in West Africa, and the issue and its implications remain under-documented and under-reported. It is clear, however, that wildlife populations are declining precipitously. One estimate, now dated, posits that Ghana’s wildlife biomass has declined by three-quarters since the 1970s.

The images I have shot to date were taken over a few days, on a trip constrained in both scope and time. I seek to return to the region to shoot in-depth, and to follow the story’s threads from the more accessible urban centres back out to its wilder roots. I have begun the process of seeking partners and collaborators, and ultimately hope to contribute to raising awareness of the trade and its implications, and to furthering discussion of the ongoing sustainability of both the trade and the wildlife on which it depends. If we are indeed in the Anthropocene, our acceptance of this cannot be passive.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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A roving knife sharpener sharpening a butcher's machete at Atwemonom, the largest bushmeat market in Kumasi, Ghana on 7 September 2016.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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The Central Market in Kumasi, Ghana, seen on 8 September 2016, is a sprawling expanse of tin- roofed sheds, shacks and shops and is reputed to be the largest market in West Africa. Everything from cosmetics to baking tins to musical instruments can readily be bought. In one section of the market bushmeat sellers are dotted amongst vendors of other foodstuffs.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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Duiker carcasses, having had their fur singed off before being frozen, in a freezer at Atwemonom, the largest bushmeat market in Kumasi, Ghana on 7 September 2016. Though a hunting ban was in force between 1 August and 1 December 2016 and grasscutters (greater cane rats) were the only legal quarry, duiker were amongst the species commonly delivered to the market.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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A bustling street in the Kejetia area of Kumasi, the second largest city in Ghana, on 6 September 2016. Both Atwemonom, the bushmeat market, and the Central Market, which is reputed to be the largest in West Africa, are nearby. The streets of the entire area are choked with pedestrians, vehicles and traders plying their wares. Some bushmeat traders butcher and keep their stocks in freezers at Atwemonom, but sell in the Central Market.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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The horns are chopped off the severed head of a bushbuck as its carcass is butchered and sold as bushmeat in Atwemonom, the main bushmeat market, in Kumasi, Ghana on 7 September 2016. Horns are sold separately for the magical powers that some people believe that they possess. It was the breeding season for many game animals, and a hunting ban was in force from 1 August to 1 December 2016 with the intention that populations be able to regenerate. Grasscutters (greater cane rats) were the only legal quarry.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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A Forestry Commission inspector's logbook at Atwemonom, the main bushmeat market in Kumasi, Ghana reflects only deliveries of grasscutters (greater cane rats), which were the only legal quarry during a hunting ban that was in place between 1 August and 1 December 2016. Records of deliveries of animals killed in contravention of the ban are conspicuously absent, even though the inspector witnessed their delivery. Instead, false entries for grasscutters were recorded. Some illegal kills were recorded on a separate scrap of paper. The cover of the logbook states, "This book contains scientific records".

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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A Forestry Commission inspector chatting while surrounded by illegal deliveries of bushbuck, duiker and wild pig at Atwemonom, the main bushmeat market in Kumasi, Ghana on 7 September 2016. A hunting ban was in effect, with grasscutters (greater cane rats) being the only legal quarry, but no action was taken and these deliveries were not recorded in his official logbook. One was noted on a separate scrap of paper together with an estimated value; for the others, false entries of grasscutters were logged in his record book.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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A butcher singeing the hair off a duiker carcass before it is butchered and sold in Atwemonom, the main bushmeat market, in Kumasi, Ghana on 6 September 2016. It is hot and dirty work, and leaves an acrid odour and a layer of greasy soot on everyone and everything.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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A dead pangolin on 7 September 2016 at Atwemonom, the main bushmeat market in Kumasi, Ghana, before it was singed over an open fire, its scales scraped off with a machete, and its carcass butchered for sale. A hunting ban was in force at the time, rendering the trade of all species other than grasscutters (greater cane rats) illegal between the dates of 1 August and 1 December 2016. According to the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN), all eight species of pangolin are threatened with extinction.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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The owner of a popular "chop bar" in Kumasi, Ghana that specialises in a variety of soups containing antelope and grasscutter (greater cane rat), as well as fish and the meat of domesticated animals. (To "chop" is to eat in Ghanaian pidgin.) Bushmeat is considered a delicacy by some Ghanaians, and some of her customers said that they travel across town to eat at her restaurant. In addition, similar to the way that some people prefer to eat organic food, there is a perception that bushmeat is healthier because it is seen to be fresh and natural and free from additives.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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A bushmeat vendor negotiating a sale of grasscutter (greater cane rat) cuts at Atwemonom, the main bushmeat market in Kumasi, the second-largest city in Ghana, on 7 September 2016. A hunting ban was in place between 1 August and 1 December 2016, and grasscutter was the only bushmeat that could legally hunted and sold. Grasscutter meat is considered a delicacy by some Ghanaians.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
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Customers buying breakfast at a popular "chop bar" in Kumasi, Ghana that specialises in a variety of soups containing antelope and grasscutter (greater cane rat), as well as fish and the meat of domesticated animals. (To "chop" is to eat in Ghanaian pidgin.) Bushmeat is considered a delicacy by some Ghanaians, and some customers said that they travel across town to eat here. In addition, similar to the way that some people prefer to eat organic food, there is a perception that bushmeat is healthier because it is seen to be fresh and natural and free from additives.

© Nyani Quarmyne - Image from the The Price of Bushmeat photography project
i

A butcher singeing the hair off a duiker carcass before it is butchered and sold in Atwemonom, the main bushmeat market, in Kumasi, Ghana on 7 September 2016. It is hot and dirty work, and leaves an acrid odour and a layer of greasy soot on everyone and everything. A hunting ban was in effect and only grasscutters (greater cane rats) could legally be hunted and sold at this time.

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