INTRACCIÀ

How do we embrace a place we love? I tried to explore the links that make up the Corsican identity through the register of my sensations. Intraccià is the reflect of my subjectivity, a love letter photographed on the roads of what has became my home.

I shout your name, clinging to the rail of the ferry as it slowly pulls me away from your rocky shores. Puzzled or amused passengers stare at me, unsure whether the Libecciu roaring over the deck is getting to my head. Island of my heart, this isn’t a farewell, just a goodbye. You took me in as your child and allowed me, the son of nowhere, to spread out my roots.

In my suitcase I am taking with me countless memories and stories of women and men, who confided in me and share a common pride of their island. There are those who have pledged their love forever and those who fight furiously. There is one whose ashes are now in the peaceful seawaters where we will keep bathing. There is the one that weeps in silence under the great starry sky. There is the one who takes a life in the maquis and gets an offering. And there’s the one who reads life’s fortune in a drop of olive oil.

Here or elsewhere, how do we embrace a place we love?

You’re already no more than a lifeline on the horizon, and your soul-stirring songs vibrate in my ears. The swell tosses me from memory to memory, tinged with the ochre of the mountains and the pristine azure. In the solitude of winter, I drive aimlessly along the winding roads of the enchanting Orezza valley. Chestnuts pour down and end their journey with a loud crash on the roof. In Moriani, I stop to salute the mournful memorial to Pasquale Paoli, with my back to the sea. I’m lost on a path to the Punta di u Furneddu, where I would like to spend the night, hidden in the arms of the maquis.

All this time, I’ve been looking for traces along your paths in the hope of becoming just another stone among the ruins. I’ve studied your landscapes, I’ve drunk from your springs, I’ve danced in your villages. And now that you’ve seen me born as myself, I’m going to continue my wanderings. Always on the move, I leave only to return.

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That's the question I've been asking myself with my photography as I criss-cross Corsica for the past six years. Through a poetic and intimate tale, I set out to explore my own emotions, looking for snippets of answers to a game of questions and answers in the images I gather, with an insatiable thirst for the experiences of those who walk this land. Leaving aside my approach as a journalist, I was able to embark on this new journey without a destination, that of exploring the feelings that this island provokes in me, and the questioning of my own identity that it inspires. Far from the expected clichés, I'm looking for sensitive traces to redraw an intimate and poetic map of Corsica. Intraccià is the fruit of my wanderings, my love and my inexplicable feeling of belonging to a land that is not my own.

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Intraccià will published as a book in June 2024 by Saetta Books during the Rencontres d'Arles.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Image from the INTRACCIÀ photography project
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Struccia Falls, Carchetu, Castagniccia, April 2022. This is the magical setting where novelist Jean-Claude Rogliano wrote Mal Cunciliu, a timeless tale of Corsican literature that illustrates the survival of certain traditions in the modern world.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Pierre, San Ciprianu, December 2019
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Pierre, San Ciprianu, December 2019

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Image from the INTRACCIÀ photography project
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Alexandre, known as Panpan, searching for shellfish hiddenin the Benedettu rocks, August 2018. For me, this moment illustrates all the love and the inexplicable senseof belonging that I feel towards this island.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Image from the INTRACCIÀ photography project
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Dumè Branducci, at home, Portivechju, May 2020. “They call me a ’banditof honour’, because I haven’t killed anyone”, this old chap keeps on repeating to me. He tells me about the events that led him to go underground and seek refuge for a while in the Genoese tower overlooking the bay, about the robbery charge that he was a victim of.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Marie and Alexandre, Palumbaghja, Portivechju, February 2020.
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Marie and Alexandre, Palumbaghja, Portivechju, February 2020.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Osu valley, February 2021. Steveis burning green waste. I’m chopping wood for the fireplace.
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Osu valley, February 2021. Steveis burning green waste. I’m chopping wood for the fireplace.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Qual’hè ? So eiu, u to frateddu di lotta. Steve, Osu valley, December 2019.
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Qual’hè ? So eiu, u to frateddu di lotta. Steve, Osu valley, December 2019.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - In u mari, in ’ssu mari tamantuà u mondu, u polpu hè mortu sta sera. San Ciprianu Bay, May 2021.
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In u mari, in ’ssu mari tamantuà u mondu, u polpu hè mortu sta sera. San Ciprianu Bay, May 2021.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Enchanting seaweed pool, Puntadi u Furneddu, Monte Incudine massif, June 2020.
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Enchanting seaweed pool, Puntadi u Furneddu, Monte Incudine massif, June 2020.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Image from the INTRACCIÀ photography project
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Brandu Gate, North of Bastia,Cap Corse, March 2020. This is where the fairy Chjara is said to be home. The legend says she could changeher appearance on demand and that she sometimes crossed the Tyrrhenian Sea in the form of a bat to visit her cousins on the mainland.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Wild boar’s head, Machja, March 2021.
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Wild boar’s head, Machja, March 2021.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Elisa, near Lecci, Osu valley, February 2022.
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Elisa, near Lecci, Osu valley, February 2022.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Chestnut tree, Castagniccia, August 2023.
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Chestnut tree, Castagniccia, August 2023.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Abdou, in a vineyard in Figari, pièveof Fretu, July 2022, for the newspaper Le Monde.
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Abdou, in a vineyard in Figari, pièveof Fretu, July 2022, for the newspaper Le Monde.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Image from the INTRACCIÀ photography project
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Carchetu, Castagniccia, November 2023.A thousand-year-old tradition in which a few drops of oil are poured into the water. If the drops dilute, the patient hè annuchjatu, i.e. is carrying the ochju, the evil eye; if the drops remain whole, then it is not a spell. This practicehas never completely disappeared, despite the gradual Christianisationof the island.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Image from the INTRACCIÀ photography project
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Gravestone with illegible inscriptions in the funeral chapel adjoining the birth house of Pasquale Paoli, Merusaglia, piève of Rustinu, Castagniccia, August 2023.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - San Ciprianu Bay, July 2020.
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San Ciprianu Bay, July 2020.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Image from the INTRACCIÀ photography project
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Pierre, Portivechju, December 2019. Winter is the season when the island reveals itself. On this very day,it was presenting itself under a fine drizzle coming from the mainland.

© Kamil Zihnioglu - Image from the INTRACCIÀ photography project
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Aboard the Suspicious Mind, in the bay of San Ciprianu, May 2020. Night is slowly falling. The enhanced vision that appears represents for me the utopic island where everything is possible. Today, I know that this utopia is a frozen image, a postcard of the past. I have to forget all those faces I thought I knew, so that I can keep on building the figures of this island.