Under the Palm Trees

Attempting the question if and how the presence of the war is tangible in its absence, Under the Palm Trees is a series of photographs along Ukraine's western external borders – the geographical line that currently separates Europe from the war.

"There is something disturbingly surprising about Eastern Europe. Coming from the west, it seems a little out of time, and this allows a variety of new connections to be made to a nostalgic and imaginary world in a somehow dystopian present. A rich diversity of culture lays forgotten on the table of politics and so it begins to part different ways.

While the war in Ukraine rages in the background of this work, I was always also looking for other realities happening at the same time. The plastic palm trees on the military outpost of a vacation village; a beautifully dressed woman in an Orthodox monastery next to a vacuum cleaner; a broken-down car drowning in the floodwaters at the diner as if it were sleeping in the Mississippi; the song Life is Life playing on the radio while bushes scrape the outside of our car as the driver dodges potholes at high speed on the road to Odessa; or simply the beautiful landscape of a riverbank in the dim morning light that is forbidden to photograph. Like the smoke coming out of that tree, this work is my note of that time."

Under the Palm Trees takes up the subject of war and conflict in a form that goes far beyond the narratives of traditional photojournalism. It explores the possibilities and limits of what can be depicted and attempts the question if and how the presence of war is tangible in its absence.

The photographs were taken between 2022 and 2024 with an analog large-format camera in Poland, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Moldova, the Russian separatist state of Transnistria, and the autonomous region of Gagauzia.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Dawn on the Dniester, Border with Ukraine. Soroca, Republic of Moldova, February 2024. / The Dniester is part of the border between Moldova and Ukraine. Since the beginning of the Russian invasion of Ukraine in February 2022, it has been forbidden to photograph the river in the border regions.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Yuri in the wedding hall. Congaz, Gagauzia, Republic of Moldova, 2024. / Yuri poses for a portrait in the wedding hall of the hotel "Gagauz-Sofrasi". Even though the Gagauz population mostly considers itself to be on Russia‘s side, the hotels owner took in Ukrainian refugees and took care of them until complete exhaustion.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Abandoned Party Area. Okuninka, Poland, March 2022. / Okuninka is a popular resort in the Poland-Belarus-Ukraine border triangle. The party area is deserted, the plastic palm tree bent. Soldiers guard the place at night. During the day, they drive from here to the border.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Liliana at the Monastery. Botos, Romania, February 2024. / Liliana looks out over the Carpathian mountains and poses for a portrait at the „Sfintii Apostoli Petru si Pavel“ monastery in Botos. She regularly comes here with her friends to spend several days praying in the monastery. She doesn‘t notice anything of the war here.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Burning Tree. Huwniki, Poland, March 2022. / A burning tree in Huwniki, a small village near Ukraine in eastern Poland. During the Second World War, Huwniki was occupied by the Nazis. In 1942, the Jewish population of the village was murdered by the nationalist Ukrainian police, who were collaborating with Nazi Germany at the time.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Non Stop Rest Area. Tibava, Slovakia, February 2024. / A deserted rest area in Tibava, a small community in the structurally weak border region in the far east of Slovakia, the so-called “gateway to the EU without a highway“. One hope for the region is refugees from Ukraine, who have been buying houses here in increasing numbers in recent years.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Shepherd in sheepskin. Rarau, Romania, February 2024. / A shepherd poses for a portrait in sheepskin clothing - a dying tradition. He sells home-grown food at a Sunday market in a parking lot in the Carpathian Mountains.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Manmade landscape. Tiraspol, Transnistria, February 2023. / Transnistria is an internationally unrecognized Russian-backed de facto regime within the Republic of Moldova. Around 1500 soldiers of the Russian armed forces are stationed in Transnistria, but have not yet been made available for the Russian attack on Ukraine.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Construction site of a church. Pervomaisc, Transnistria, February 2023. / More and more churches are being built in Transnistria, says a friend who regularly visits his family there. It is thought that this is to distract the population from Russia‘s war of aggression against Ukraine.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Three friends on the Black Sea. Sulina, Romania, February 2024. / Cosmin, Alexandru and Răzvan are spending an evening at the harbour in Sulina. The small town on the Black Sea can only be reached by ferry across a branch of the Danube. In the 19th century, Sulina was the seat of the European Danube Commission. This was disbanded after the Second World War and Sulina fell into oblivion.

© Ludwig Nikulski - Image from the Under the Palm Trees photography project
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Industrial area. Tiraspol, Transnistria, February 2023. / The Transnistrian economy depends mostly on large industrial companies that were established during the Soviet era. Political relations between Moldova and Transnistria are deteriorating. Moldovan authorities have recently abolished customs concessions for the unrecognized state and intend to impose fines for environmental damage.

Under the Palm Trees by Ludwig Nikulski

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