The High Land

© Katerina Churbakova - Image from the The High Land photography project © Katerina Churbakova - Image from the The High Land photography project © Katerina Churbakova - Image from the The High Land photography project View all images ↓
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An ancient complex of churches and sketes is located on Valaam Island and multiple neighbouring islets. It is a home to one of the largest male orthodox monasteries in Russia. Valaam Island is considered to imitate the Holy Land of Jerusalem. After a fragment of the Holy Sepulcher was brought to Valaam and several parts of the island were given names related to the most important evangelical locations and events. Today it is self-sufficient and relies exclusively on its extensive farming activities.

Despite its remoteness, it attracts tens of thousands of pilgrims and tourists from all over the world. More than two hundred monks and novices permanently live on the island. Some of the locals who have remained here since the Valaam village was abolished still do not want to leave the island, because they see it as their home. Many volunteers who come to help the monastery with various chores are constantly renewing and changing the social landscape of the island. This distribution of people is a unique phenomenon for a closed monastery. As a result, a distinctive social climate and human relationships are created on the island.

There are many stereotypes about monastic life. It is difficult to notice from the outside, but after having lived on the island you begin to see that life there represents a miniature model of our society. People’s experiences also include friendships, relationships, work and conflicts. It is often said that one comes to the monastery because of life's hardships. Many people came to this place because of addictions, illnesses, challenging life situations, loss of values and meaning of life. For them, it is the last place where they can get help and support and some people try to start a new life on the island.

© Katerina Churbakova - Image from the The High Land photography project
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Kira and Ira pose for a portrait on the shore of lake Ladoga. They met at a volunteer program in the Valaam Monastery. They got along quickly and started spending a lot of time together talking about their lives and religious issues. They have been coming together as volunteers to the island for several years now. This place has become a meeting point for them. Here they can meet like-minded people and dedicate more time to prayers. Volunteers call each other "sister" or "brother" that creates trust and openness. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, October 11, 2020.

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A boat on the shore. The island of Valaam is situated in Lake Ladoga, the largest lake in Europe. Boat is the main means of transport between multiple islets and the remote parts of the island. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, May 8, 2021.

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Konstantin has been a novice at the monastery for more than five years. He lives and works on the farm helping to care for goats, cows and racoons. When he has some free time, he likes to sing and play the fife. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, Oct. 6, 2021.

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Katya sits on her bed in the dormitory room where she lives with other volunteers. This is her second time on the island. Katya is a sensitive person who likes drawing and embroidering. As she says it is difficult for her to understand her destination of life which makes her feel confused. Katya loves this place because her soul feels calm and peace here. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, Oct. 17, 2021.

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Evgeny's hands. He has been working in the canteen at the monastery for eight months now. He used to study at the theological seminary, but didn't graduate. Tattoos on his fingers say "Be happy, love, believe, pray, repent, be". He holds a Valaam cross that he always wears and is very precious to him. It was given to him by his grandmother. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, Oct. 17, 2021.

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Julia is a participant of a volunteer program at the monastery. She is an artist and has travelled a lot. Valaam is a special place of freedom and understanding for her. She likes sitting on the premises of the monastery and drawing landscapes or churches. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, Oct. 16, 2021.

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Valaam Island is located in the Republic of Karelia, Russia. This region is known for its beautiful unspoilt nature. Coniferous forests and rocky terrain are common here. Although there is infrastructure on the island, there are many impassable forests. There were some cases when people got lost and couldn't be found for several days. Volunteers and tourists are always advised not to walk through the woods alone to avoid getting lost and accidentally encountering wild animals. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, Oct. 13, 2021.

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Aljona came to Valaam for the first time as a volunteer. She was impressed by the atmosphere of the place and people who live there. She says that this is the place where she felt deep connection with God. She was given here her first cross to wear by one of the monks. When she left, she promised she would definitely come back here again. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, May 9, 2021.

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An image of an icon in the volunteer room. Some people who have been many times at the monastery as volunteers bring their own icons to set up a corner where they can pray throughout the day. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, Oct. 14, 2020.

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Vyacheslav is a novice at the monastery. He has been living on the island for four years now. He works on a farm and is responsible for cheese production. This is not the first monastery, where he stays. His daughter has also decided to devote her life to God and go into a monastery. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, May 18, 2021.

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The Bible on the bed. Reading is one of the main activities for volunteers. As many of them have job and family there isn't enough time for reading books at home. During the program volunteers prefer to read spiritual literature. Every week a meeting with a priest is organized where people can ask any questions. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, September 27, 2021.

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Artem has been living on the island of Valaam for more than a year now. Before coming here, he worked as a music rave organiser. After going through some difficulties in life, he decided to go to a monastery. Now only his green tattooed eyes, some other tattoos and scars on his body remind him of his past life. When asked how he sees his life in the future, he calmly answers "As God wills". The interesting phenomenon of the island lies in the fact that people come here for a week or two, but stay for months and even years. Some people would like to join the fraternity in the future, but the majority just love the monastic lifestyle and remoteness from the mainland. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, May 16, 2021.

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A memorial cross. There are many different memorial crosses across the island. This cross people can see from board the ship approaching the island. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, May 16, 2021.

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Ira poses on her bed with a book. It was Ira's first time volunteering on Valaam Island. Like many volunteers, she had some spiritual questions. Through reading literature and talking to priests, people find answers to their questions that bother them. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, May 9, 2021.

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Alexy, a riasaphor monk, poses in a boat that he often uses. The island of Valaam is situated in Lake Ladoga, the largest lake in Europe. The boat is the main means of transport between multiple islets and the remote parts of the island. Alexy has been living for 25 years at the Valaam Monastery. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, May 18, 2021.

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Children playing on a monastery farm. Before the majority of working processes were automatized, this old agricultural machinery had been used on the farm. The farm is a whole agricultural complex belonging to the monastery, which includes cultivated fields, a livestock farm, a poultry house, a cheese factory, outbuildings, and a residential building for monks, workers and volunteers. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, May 15, 2021.

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Anya and Aljona are volunteers and visit Valaam for the first time. They both like participating in various volunteer program. They say that this program turned out to be one of the most difficult because of distinctive and unfamiliar atmosphere of the monastery. However this experience enriched them and gave a new perspective on their lives. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, October 10, 2021.

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The Saint Nicolas Skete on the island. This is the first building that people see from board the ship approaching the island. The Valaam Monastery is located in the North part of lake Ladoga. Around 30 churches, chapels and sketes make up a complex of the monastery. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, Sept. 26, 2021.

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Leonid, a monastery worker, sits on a haystack in the cowhouse where he takes care of animals. He came to the island and stayed to help the monastery. He lived on the farm for about a year and worked as a cattleman. Eventually he decided to leave Valaam because he found the monastery rules too difficult and strict to follow. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, May 12, 2021.

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Igor, a monk, stands on a cliff. This place is called the Cliffed coast and is located in the distant part of the island. Here there is a spectacular view over Lake Ladoga and surrounding cliffs. Valaam Island, Republic of Karelia, Russia, October 6, 2021.