Magic Town

An intimate look at the town of San Miguel de Allende, its people, and the religious and social customs there.

Every experience for me begins with images. I’ve spent most of my life behind camera lenses and even without them; my eyes are still the first to search and question. I was a working-class kid from Milwaukee when wanderlust led me to San Francisco. During the mid-70s, I studied photography there during four years of college. After a move to the Twin Cities in 1980, I began working on film and video projects, making it my profession by 1986.  After a full, hard-working couple of decades, I turned to writing.  But through it all, my Canon camera remained a companion.  Still is.  And it has followed me to Mexico as well.

I reside now in San Miguel de Allende, near the center of Mexico. My proposed project challenges others to really see the town – its heart and soul represented by quiet moments and raucous celebrations alike.  I am attempting to examine native customs and celebrations in a very traditionally religious community, as a strong yet vulnerable people hang on to their cultural traditions while dependent on tourism, a diverse economy, and a desire by some to modernize.

My project introduces a 17th-century Mexican town at a pivotal time in its history.  While mostly Mexican, other foreign visitors flock to its confines, attracted by its traditional values and indigenous ways; the very existence of this influx changes the town with its transient nature and Western style.

It can be seen in the 20% population of expats (mostly from the US, Canada, and England) who come for the temperate climate and simpler lifestyle. Long a haven for writers and artists, this segment of people come and go at will – some stay for the winter months, some for mere weeks, and others strictly for holy day weekends in this town known for its Catholic pageants and processions. As an expat myself, I’ve learned to temper my expectations and attitude.

One can actually see the culture changing before our eyes with the arrival of U.S. brand clothing, the inclusion of Chinese-made souvenirs, and the gentrification of its buildings. When I was here 12 years ago for a poetry week, nearly all of the stores would not accept credit cards, and the number of cars was minimal. Now, stores welcome credit cards, and restaurants proliferate with prices set for tourists and upper-and-middle class residents.

My photo samples show mainly the old ways of life in San Miguel, and it’s my intention to continue shooting these roots of San Miguelina culture. I plan to include more examples of the transient nature and changing aspects of this town. I am fascinated by this place and want to show the place and the people who live here. At this apex of transformation, I can see both a struggle for and against modification.