Blood Under The Sundown Light

  • Dates
    2023 - Ongoing
  • Author
  • Topics Archive, Contemporary Issues, Documentary, Portrait, Social Issues
  • Location Gujarat, India

The Siddi community is the African descendants living in India. This project focuses on the Sate of Gujarat, where the Siddis have been able to intermingle their African traditions and the diverse Indian customs, creating a creolized context.

About a thousand years ago, some Abyssinians (people coming from the East part of Africa, today known as Ethiopia, Somalia, Tanzania, and Mozambique) reached the coast of Kuda in Gujarat, India. On one hand, according to the traditional spoken folklore from the Abyssinian descendants, the first ones to come to India were the three Islam siblings, Baba Gor, Baba Habash, and Mai Misra. The Prophet commanded them to undertake a journey to promote the word of Islam in Hindustan. During their odyssey in the Arabian Sea, they faced multiple problems. They endured hunger for several days, they fought the Hindu demoness, Makhan Devi to enter the subcontinent, and finally made their way into conforming a community in a new land. As claimed by the religious folklore, it is in this way that the settlements of the community, known today as Siddis, were formed.

 On the other hand, from a sociological approach, the Siddis first arrived in this vast and quint land as slaves brought by the Arab traders to serve the flourishing Kingdoms in the region. Because of their physical complexion and their great cunning as war strategists, they rapidly climbed the ranks of the royal court. Some of them became city rulers and highly respected free men. In both cases, the Siddis established settlements around Gujarat where they promoted their own cosmovision of the world, with their own folklore and traditions. Nevertheless, they made sure to generate an intersectionality with the different local communities. 

 Currently, the Siddi community has kept their settlements and the idea of a creolized culture in which they combine their African traditions with diverse socio-cultural and religious practices in India. Therefore, they do not compromise their ancestral memory (Sayan Day, 2023). This may be translated as a mere integration exercise their predecessors began years ago. It could be also understood as a willingness to create pluralism in cultures, generating a strong identity in which they are proud of their African offspring and a deep sense of belonging in India.  

 However, their efforts to keep the intermingling of cultures and their traditions alive have been affected by multiple external factors. One of them is the imminent pressure of globalization that has led the youngest to follow the rapidly changing trends on the internet and leave aside the learning of their folklore. Apart from this loss, the Siddi community faces currently racial discrimination in terms of caste and class affecting their access to education, financial growth, and job opportunities. Some of them express how other Indian citizens categorized them as non-Indian because of their physical features, making them not Indian enough to be Indians, and not African enough to belong to Africa. This creates a blurriness in their identity. 

 Even though the system inside and outside the community is quite complex, most of the Siddi members are interested in keeping their traditions alive while interacting with the external world. The Siddi community is a powerful example of how the intersectionality of cultures generates new identities, and narratives and preserves on the same time heritage and the collective memory. As Anany Kabit explains, they are like a semi-permeable membrane that allows matter to pass in both directions. 

© Alejandra Arévalo - View of the Sabarmati River from the Dargaah "Siddi Zuzair", who was a great warrior and after his dead was declared saint.
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View of the Sabarmati River from the Dargaah "Siddi Zuzair", who was a great warrior and after his dead was declared saint.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Image from the Blood Under The Sundown Light photography project
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In Ahmedabad, only three Siddi Dargaahs are taken care of by community members, mostly because they are placed far away from their place of residence and the increasing disinterest in preserving these places of worship.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Image from the Blood Under The Sundown Light photography project
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Sulem Siddi lives in Patthar Kuan in Ahmedabad, where more than 32 Siddi families live. He is studying for a Masters in psychology. He expresses his deep belonging to the Siddi community as a big extended family which has been inherited.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Siddi Bashir Dargaah, Ahmedabad.
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Siddi Bashir Dargaah, Ahmedabad.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Image from the Blood Under The Sundown Light photography project
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According to the Siddi folklore, Mai Misra placed her veil in the water praying to God for help to reach India. The moment her veil hit the water it turned into a boat. The three siblings crossed the Arabian Sea on this wooden boat.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Image from the Blood Under The Sundown Light photography project
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Fadima Didi is the founder of the Siddi Gnoma Trustee. For more than 20 years she worked for the preservation and promotion of the traditions of the community. Unfortunately, due to financial problems the foundation is no longer in operation.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Image from the Blood Under The Sundown Light photography project
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Old Port in Kuda, where, accordingly to the oral tradition the three siblings arrived in India to spread Islam in India. Photograph intervened by Allharkhi Tahir Siddi in Ahmedabad.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Image from the Blood Under The Sundown Light photography project
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Asfak is a member of the Bhavnagar Athletics League. According to his coach, Yusuf, the young people from the Siddi community have great athletic potential, so it was decided to create a section in the athletics league especially for them.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Image from the Blood Under The Sundown Light photography project
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Igbal is a member of the dancing group Siddi Banna. They perform "Dhamal" a traditional dance based on the rhythm of the drums. Usually, Dhamal is performed during the religious festivities.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Image from the Blood Under The Sundown Light photography project
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Malunga is one of the traditional instruments brought from Africa. In Gujarat there is only one elder able to play Malunga, Sultanbhai. He expresses the young generations are not interested in learning about their traditional music. Malunga Camp 2000.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Sultanbhai room, where he keeps his last Malunga. Vijapur.
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Sultanbhai room, where he keeps his last Malunga. Vijapur.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Nazima, Ahmedabad.
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Nazima, Ahmedabad.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Mai Misra Temple in Bhavnagar.
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Mai Misra Temple in Bhavnagar.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Ali, Sayieda and their first child Misba in Ahmedabad.
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Ali, Sayieda and their first child Misba in Ahmedabad.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Fadima Didi attending to her Hindu friend wedding in Bhavnagar. Family Archive.
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Fadima Didi attending to her Hindu friend wedding in Bhavnagar. Family Archive.

© Alejandra Arévalo - Old Port in Kuda, intervened by the children in Vijapur.
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Old Port in Kuda, intervened by the children in Vijapur.

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