Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu

  • Dates
    2016 - 2016
  • Author
  • Topics Contemporary Issues, Editorial, Documentary

My project “Behind Veils and Walls” reveals the lives of female Somali refugees living in exile and the quest for an authentic, meaningful existence in a transitional space. In Kampala, Uganda, tucked away in a corner of the humming downtown area lies Kisenyi, a small and rough looking bunch of du

My project “Behind Veils and Walls” reveals the lives of female Somali refugees living in exile and the quest for an authentic, meaningful existence in a transitional space.

After over two decades of chaos, conflict and violence more than 1.5 million Somalis remain displacedall over the world, many in other African countries like Uganda or Kenya. Somalia to them is no longer a physical country but rather a diaspora of Somalis and their culture. Everything is temporary for a refugee awaiting resettlement in the US or Europe, eager to leave Africa once and for all.

In Kampala, tucked away in a corner of the humming downtown area lies Kisenyi, a small and rough looking bunch of dusty streets bursting with business and trade, home to thousands of Somalis. Welcome to “Little Mogadishu“.

Exile to the young women in my photographs seems more like life in a parallel sphere. Connected to family, friends and dates all over the world almost 24/7, these women seemingly maintain their bonds through telephone, internet, social media, rotating wedding videos and gossip rather than living in the actual place they are in. It is Uganda, but could be anywhere, really. They celebrate female friendship and solidarity, creating home away from home for each other, often in absence of men, who have either died, fled or stayed behind in Somalia. They dream of romantic love just like anyone their age, yet give in to the promising material stabilities of older and more established candidates. The further up north on the globe, the better.

Exile is also a hardship that bears stigma, every day hostilities, the feeling of not belonging and a haunting past.

While they hold on to everything they believe to be Somali ( food, costums, traditions) for the women in my photos, however, exile is an overall liberating experience. Stricter cultural authorities are weakened by circumstance, backward practices like female genital mutilation (FGM) are harder to execute in this different environment while life feels more free. Somewhere in this bubble of Somali life in Uganda and hope for a better future in a far away third place, life happens.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Ayan, a young woman from Somalia, is posing for a photo in the staircase of her new home in Kampala, an appartment block in Kisenyi area aka "Little Mogadishu" for its high number of Somali migrant population. Ayan left Somalia in 2014 with the family she worked for as a house girl when she felt the bomb blasts were getting too much for her. She misses her mother a lot, sometimes they talk on the phone.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Passersby and Ugandan Bodaboda cyclists ( motorcycle taxis) are part of the daily live in the Kampala neighbourhood of Kisenyi, which is also known as "Little Mogadishu" due to its high Somali population. After over two decades of chaos, conflict and violence more than 1.5 million Somalis remain displaced all over the world, many in other African countries like Uganda or Kenya.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Bishara's grandmother, head of her family, prays in her two room house in Kisenyi. She grew up in a seaside mansion in Mogadishu. After over two decades of chaos, conflict and violence more than 1.5 million Somalis remain displaced all over the world, many in other African countries like Uganda or Kenya. In Kampala, tucked away in a corner of the humming downtown area lies Kisenyi, a small and rough looking bunch of dusty streets bursting with business and trade, home to thousands of Somalis.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Doves fly in the air in a small market place frequented by Somali immigrants in the Kampala's neighbourhood of Kisenyi, which is also known as "Little Mogadishu" due to its high Somali population.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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A Somali woman is exiting an internet café in Kisenyi, a neighbourhood in Kampala that earned itself the name "Little Mogadishu" due to its high Somali migrant population. Staying in touch with family and friends in Europe, the US or even home in Somali is important while living in exile.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Fartum, a mother of seven is seen with two of her daughters. She last saw her husband 6 months ago in Somalia when he had to go into hiding, then the rest of the family had to leave, too. Nobody knows wether he is alive or dead but Fartum is grateful that her children are safe every single day when she goes out on the streets of Kisenyi to sell food. Kisenyi lies in the Ugandan capital Kampala and has become home to thousands of Somalis.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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A woman prays while others take selfies or wander around in a compound close to the Kisenyi neighbourhood in Kampala, Uganda. The women are guests of women only party called Shaash Saar, which traditionally happens seven days after a wedding.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Bishara (left), 20, is seen in a home setting without wearing her veil and while putting on makeup to go out. On the opposite bed sits her younger sister Amal, with whom, amongst others she shares this room. Bishara is studying and working at the same time. She lives in a female only household in Kisenyi, Kampala's neighbourhood nicknamed " Little Mogadishu" for its high number of Somali migrants, headed by her grandmother, sharing a small space with her mom, aunts and four sisters.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Ayan, 19, and Abdullah, 20, from Mogadishu are married and living together in a small room. They are expecting a baby and trying to make things work despite financial challenges and while neither of them has any relative in Uganda. They share one small rented room in an appartment house in the Kisenyi neighbourhood of Kampala that is entirely rented out to Somali migrants.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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A Somali proverb is written down by one of this project's female protagonists on a small piece of paper and placed on a flower bedsheet in a shared room of female Somali refugees in Kampala's Kisenyi neighbourhood. We cooperated in finding and selecting proverbs to be added to this project.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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S is portrayed looking at her phone as if awaiting a message from her boyfriend in Mogadishu. She hopes he will decide to leave for Europe and then help her to get resettled as well: "Destiny is higher than love.“

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Fartuma is getting married for the second time after a divorce, so is for her older husband-to-be. In the Somali culture it is very important to be married and have many children. Seeking marriage partners is a popular way through which many Somalis plan for a different future. In the diaspora, the most desirable partners are those living in the West.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Fartuma is escorted from the beauty salon in which she was prepared for her wedding day to the car that will bring her to the venue. It is okay for a bride to show her hair within the wedding ceremony, however for the meters she walks in public an effort to cover her hair is made.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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A young Somali refugee girl gets trapped in a curtain at her grandmother's house in Kisenyi, Kampala's neighbourhood with the highest number of Somali migrants. The girl is waiting to be reunited with her mother who has already been resettled to Scandinavia and is waiting for her three children to follow her.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Typical snacks like chewing gum, sodas, biscuits and xalwo (halva) are offered at a women’s party called Shaash Saar close to kisenyi neighbourhood in Kampala, which traditionally happens seven days after a wedding.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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A gift set of glasses remains half packed on a newly bought couch after a traditional women's party called Shaash Saar around Kampala's Kisenyi area. The party where female friends and relatives visit the new bride in her new house with gifts and scarfs traditionally happens seven days after a wedding.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Fartuma's Shaash Saar. On the seventh day after a wedding there is a women’s party for the bride. The guests form a circle around the bride singing and each laying scarfs (Shaash) on her head. This is a way of showing respect to her for being married and it stands as an equivalent of certification that the bride is now ready for motherhood. The custom dates back from when only married women wore a headscarf, but unmarried girls had their hair open and braided.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Bishara ,20, is studying and working at the same time. She lives in a female only household headed by her grandmother, sharing a small space with her mom, aunts and four sisters. She first got married at 14 because she wanted to help her family out of their financially difficult situation in exile, but the marriage to a wealthy Somali in Scandinavia failed. He had seen her on a wedding video and had liked the way she looked. The first day she ever saw him was the day before the wedding. She now wants to focus on her education and has a long distance relationship to her Somali boyfriend in Berlin who made it through the long and dangerous journey from Uganda to Germany. “I will never ever marry again because of money“.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Mama Asli has lived through two sons losing their lives by the hands of human traffickers on the way to Europe. A third son miraculously survived a boat crash in the Mediterranean and reached the Italian coast safely. It is one of the biggest issues in the community in Kampala to make their youth understand that this journey cannot only mean the beginning of a new life in a better (?) place, but just as well be the end. But despite knowing this, especially young men feel that they have nothing much to lose but everything to win.

© Anne Ackermann - Image from the Behind Veils and Walls - Women in Little Mogadishu photography project
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Street Portrait #2. Kaddra, 18, an orphan from Mogadisu arrived in Kampala 8 months ago. She is taking care of her aunt’s three children who are waiting to reunite with her in Europe. Their mother pays rent and food sending money from Sveden: „This is not our live. As soon as these kids have gone to Sveden, we won’t have a place to stay anymore. I am scared. I am already broken, I can’t be broken again.“ For this portrait Kaddra was placeed in a street scene with a blurred out face on purpose and with her consent and full understanding of the type of image and emotion that I was intending to create.

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