Beyond sighs and shadows

  • Dates
    2022 - Ongoing
  • Author
  • Topics Archive, Contemporary Issues, Documentary
  • Locations France, Arles, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer

Are there still Indians in Camargue ? Buffalo Bill’s show turned this land into a Western stage. I track these elusive ghosts, navigating between myths, archives, and unexpected encounters, on a detective-like quest where fiction quietly invades reality.

Are there still Indians in Camargue ?

A hundred years ago, a group of Sioux Indians arrived in the south of France with Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show and developed an epistolary friendship—often imaginative—with the Marquis Folco de Baroncelli, a poet, cattle breeder, and the spiritual father of the Camargue as we know it today.

Fascinated by the mystery of this ancient people, the Marquis believed an invisible thread linked the destinies of the Sioux and the Camarguais, to the point of imagining himself as a Sioux in a past life. Enchanted by this vision, Baroncelli reshaped his land, drawing on Native American imagery and transforming the Camargue into an extension of the romantic, exotic, and contradictory Far West represented by Buffalo Bill. Over time, it became a cinematic western landscape, populated by local cowboys. The echoes of this myth remain imprinted on the land today.

The Camargue itself becomes a fictional cartography, where every story is infused with poetry, a hunting ground for an illusory quest in which the object sought belongs more to the realm of dreams than to reality. The figure of the Indian—mythical and enigmatic—serves as a key to better understanding this land, with its contradictions, aspirations, and fragilities.

I set off in search of these phantoms of Indians—like a savage detective—who at times falsifies his own evidence and lets himself be seduced by the lightness of lies. Other narratives emerge, and new stories become possible, within a territory that is itself a fictional construct. I encounter characters—an ex-legionnaire turned cowboy, a false Buffalo Bill, an amnesiac Polish fakir—who feed this story and orbit around it. Refugees in a form of insularity, they reinvent themselves through different masks, shapes, and dreams, navigating a world that often feels absurd and painful.

I began this project alongside a man who truly believed there could still be Indians in the Camargue. Though the odds were slim, I trusted his heart, for like the first poets, he could summon into existence that which he dreamed.

Rather than fabricating myths, I engage in their ludic fictionalization—adapting and shifting their meaning to reflect the contemporary world. Like a detective investigating obsessions, illusions, and metamorphoses, I develop an inquiry where storytelling becomes a game of mirrors, revealing the cracks between truth and myth. Searching without finding is the essence of narration, and the only way forward is to embrace the quest itself as eternal.

At its core, this project suggests that storytelling—especially in a ludic dimension—can offer a kind of repair for the world, or at least a way to endure it. But it is all a matter of dosage. As Plato said, every narrative is pharmakon : in small doses, a remedy ; in large doses, a poison.

"Beyond Sighs and Shadows" is a multidisciplinary project, combining archives (letters, contracts, poems, films, photographs, books), found objects from the quest, a novel and over fifty medium-format photographs.

© Francesco Canova - Image from the Beyond sighs and shadows photography project
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Karlo, a local figure in Camargue, was a complex character – a poet, brigand, sorcerer, and nomad – who held the belief that there were still Indians in the region. On occasion, he would dress as an Indian himself. Arles, 2022.

© Francesco Canova - Horse birth in a Manade. Camargue, 2023.
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Horse birth in a Manade. Camargue, 2023.

© Francesco Canova - The Grave of Folco de Baroncelli. Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, 2022.
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The Grave of Folco de Baroncelli. Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, 2022.

© Francesco Canova - Che, rodeo cowboy from Montana in visit. Arles, 2024.
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Che, rodeo cowboy from Montana in visit. Arles, 2024.

© Francesco Canova - Access to a houseboat named Mississippi. Arles, 2024.
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Access to a houseboat named Mississippi. Arles, 2024.

© Francesco Canova - Regina and his blind Mustang horse. Camargue, 2024.
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Regina and his blind Mustang horse. Camargue, 2024.

© Francesco Canova - Image from the Beyond sighs and shadows photography project
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Saint Sarah, also known as Sara the Black, is the patron saint of the Romani people in Folk Catholicism. The center of her veneration is Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, in Camargue, Southern France. Here, in a Gypsy Caravan, the small statue of Saint Sarah is displayed alongside Indian objects on a small improvised altar. Camargue, 2024.

© Francesco Canova - Landscape after a storm. Arles, 2024.
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Landscape after a storm. Arles, 2024.

© Francesco Canova - Gipsy horse caravan. Camargue, 2024.
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Gipsy horse caravan. Camargue, 2024.

© Francesco Canova - Papy Claude, a retired legionnaire, runs a cowboy-themed amusement park. Cuges-les-Pins, 2024.
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Papy Claude, a retired legionnaire, runs a cowboy-themed amusement park. Cuges-les-Pins, 2024.

© Francesco Canova - Image from the Beyond sighs and shadows photography project
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Diptych featuring a portrait of Karlo dressed as an Indian next to a portrait of Marquis Folco de Baroncelli wearing an Indian headdress he bought from some Sioux at Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show.

© Francesco Canova - Image from the Beyond sighs and shadows photography project
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The Baroncelli family wardrobe is a relic containing items purchased by Marquis Folco de Baroncelli from the Sioux Indians over a period of twenty years. However, the marquis's heirs reportedly left it in a state of neglect, with the objects within succumbing to termite damage. This degradation was reportedly driven by a fear of an Indian curse associated with the objects. Camargue, 2022.

Beyond sighs and shadows by Francesco Canova

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