The great river Amur

I was born and grew up on the shore of Amur river. During all my school years and later, in University, from 1980 to 1995, I was spending 10-11 months in Khabarovsk and in the summer I used to go to Blagoveshensk where my grandmother lived. Both cities are situated completely on one shore of the river, but there are different reasons for that. Near Khabarovsk Amur is too wide to allow the city to grow over other side. And in Blagoveshensk the state border follows the river, and there is a Chinese city on other shore, Heihe. So the river always divided the space at “known” and “unknown” in mi mind. Chines shore seemed to be completely inaccessible, I could not imagine that one day I would find myself there. The left shore of Amur in Khabarovsk was not inaccessible, in theory, but in reality I crossed Amur only once a year, on a train going to Blagoveshensk. But I often visited the big island, which you can found just near Khabarovsk in the middle of the Amur River, because there were dachas, summer kithen-gardens which used to had each russian family.

So quite naturally in mi mind formed a model of an inhabited place, how it should be constructed: a city on a shore of a big river, some mysterious place on the other shore and river as a border. Later when I lived in some other cities which are constructed in other way I always have a feeling that something important is missing. And a river became for me the symbol of a border in general, an other shore of a river – the symbol of something mysterious and otherworldly, and island – the symbol of the strange magical space in-between.

In the mean time there is indeed the border between China and Russia which follows Amur all the way from Blagoveshensk to Khabarovsk, and this border isn't impenetrable anymore. Now it's possible to pass along both sides of the river and compare how people live there. 30 years have passed and many thing changed since then. In 80-th when I visited Blagoveshensk I always paid attention to an old steamboat with the wheels on both sides, such boats were widely use in Russia in 30-th. This ghost of the past was surfing from Heihe down the river and back, you could watch it almost each day. In the end of 80-th they changed it to mere new steamer, which was made in America in 50-th, with one wheel on the back side. Heihe at that time was a very little town. Now he has grown to a city with 1,5 mln population. In the same time Blagoveshensk has barely changed.

For me this work isn't just a documentary exploring of the river which at the same time connects and divides two countries. It's also an hommage to my own childhood and the symbolic ruver which flows between two shores of my own inner space.

© Ilya Shtutsa - A view om Heihe from the quay of Amur river in Blagoveshensk, Russia
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A view om Heihe from the quay of Amur river in Blagoveshensk, Russia

© Ilya Shtutsa - Karla Marksa street in Khabarovsk, Russia
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Karla Marksa street in Khabarovsk, Russia

© Ilya Shtutsa - Garbage utilisation in Heihe, China
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Garbage utilisation in Heihe, China

© Ilya Shtutsa - A night scene in Heihe, China
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A night scene in Heihe, China

© Ilya Shtutsa - People on a bus stop in Blagoveshensk, Russia
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People on a bus stop in Blagoveshensk, Russia

© Ilya Shtutsa - Central market in Blagoveshensk, Russia
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Central market in Blagoveshensk, Russia

© Ilya Shtutsa - Elder people play cards on the main street in Heihe, China
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Elder people play cards on the main street in Heihe, China

© Ilya Shtutsa - People on the quay of Amur in Khabarovsk, Russia
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People on the quay of Amur in Khabarovsk, Russia

© Ilya Shtutsa - The morning market in Heihe, China
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The morning market in Heihe, China

© Ilya Shtutsa - A man rests on a bench on the Amur quay in Heihe, China
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A man rests on a bench on the Amur quay in Heihe, China

© Ilya Shtutsa - Image from the The great river Amur photography project
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A view from a train to Khabarovsk window five minute before it's departing from Blagoveshensk. Despite the fact that Amur is navigable, there are no regulal passenger cruises between these two cities

© Ilya Shtutsa - Street scene in Heihe, China
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Street scene in Heihe, China

© Ilya Shtutsa - Elder women on the way to their dachas on Kabelny Island near Khabarovsk, Russia
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Elder women on the way to their dachas on Kabelny Island near Khabarovsk, Russia

© Ilya Shtutsa - Children play with a dog near the entrance to a local shop in Blagoveshensk, Russia
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Children play with a dog near the entrance to a local shop in Blagoveshensk, Russia

© Ilya Shtutsa - A man in uniform waits for a bus in Blagoveshensk, RussiaChildren a
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A man in uniform waits for a bus in Blagoveshensk, RussiaChildren a

© Ilya Shtutsa - Street scene in Khabarovsk, Russia
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Street scene in Khabarovsk, Russia

© Ilya Shtutsa - Schoolchildren at a break in Heihe, China
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Schoolchildren at a break in Heihe, China

© Ilya Shtutsa - Road worker rests on the Amur quay in Khabarovsk, Russia
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Road worker rests on the Amur quay in Khabarovsk, Russia

© Ilya Shtutsa - Image from the The great river Amur photography project
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A small boat is the only way to get from Khabarovsk to Kabelny Island where a lots of citizen have small pieces of land called dachs where they grow potatoes and other vegetables.

© Ilya Shtutsa - Central market in KhabarovskA road worker rests on Amur quay in Khabarovsk, Russia
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Central market in KhabarovskA road worker rests on Amur quay in Khabarovsk, Russia

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