Rangzen

  • Dates
    2017 - Ongoing
  • Author
  • Topics Portrait, Contemporary Issues, Documentary
  • Locations India, Nepal, Tibet

Nearly 70 years after China invaded Tibet, the generation of people who remember it 'before' is dwindling. Theirs & current stories are woven together to create an overarching narrative of the Tibetan struggle for freedom and explore complex nature of national identity for Tibetan refugees in exile

‘Remember the suffering brought by the changing times to the people of the snowland, the people endowed with history, courage and a sense of national responsibility. Remember their unflinching determination and let us continue to develop our own sense of national responsibility’. - The Dalai Lama Tenzin Gyatso, April 30, 2000

In 1950 China invaded Tibet. The occupation that ensued was undertaken through brutal oppression, destruction and degradation with actions and policies aimed at destroying the traditional Tibetan way of life and wiping out the national identity of its people. This literal and metaphorical rape of the Tibetan people, land and culture forced thousands to flee. Many followed their leader, the Dalai Lama, into exile in India after a national uprising in 1959 during which an estimated 430,000 Tibetans were killed. Today there are over 150,000 Tibetans refugees living in exile worldwide with the vast majority in India and Nepal. China’s stranglehold over this peaceful nation continues unabated till today, threatening to squeeze out the last breath of the old Tibetan way of life.

Now we stand on the precipice of another tragedy. A more subtle and insidious one but one just as grave; the death of a generation. A generation of people who still remember Tibet before the Chinese invaded and who are still are alive to tell the stories. It is now of even greater pertinence that we capture and share these stories so that even if ‘Rangzen’ (meaning: freedom in Tibetan) is never attained; the rich, ancient culture of this peaceful country, the sense of national identity and accounts from a time when Tibet was free will not be diluted, or worse still, totally expunged.

Rangzen is an ongoing project which weaves together these stories to create an over-arching narrative of the Tibetan struggle and complex nature of national identity for Tibetan refugees in exile. It aims to serve as a document of Tibetan identity, what it means to be a Tibetan and the importance of continuing to share stories and traditions of a bygone era in order to preserve this precious identity, even in the absence of a free and autonomous Tibet. These people are Tibetan. These are their stories. Hear their voices.

I would like to return to India and Nepal to continue this work. I made a strong network of connections whilst out there shooting and researching this project. I spent a week Geshe Lhakdor, his holiness the Dalai Lama's religious assistant and translator from 1989 to 2005 who is now the Director of the Library of Tibetan works and Archive. Unfortunately, I had to leave the country due to visa issues before I was able to the photograph him for the series. I also made a connection with the son of one of the men who helped smuggle the Dalai Lama out of Tibet, I wish to go to Pokhara to the Tibetan settlement there where he lives to interview and photograph him also. I then plan to make a book, which will include limited edition prints, printed on paper made by Tibetan Refugees in exile and printed by a gallery in McLeod Ganj which is run by Tibetan refugees in exile. Then profits from the books will go to the Tibetan Women's association to the be given to their program to sponsor Tibetan refugee families when they have children, to help support the population growth and keep the stories alive in the most literal sense.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Confluence of the Indus and the Zanskar rivers. The Indus, one of Asia's great rivers, originates in the Changtang cold desert in the high altitude Tibetan Plateau crossing the border into India. It meets the Zanskar River in Nimmu Valley, It flows from Tibet. Ladakh in the lap of the Himalayas where one can stand and look towards Tibet.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

From Ladakh Tibet is just a gaze away. They said: from that black knoll at Dumtse it’s Tibet. For the first time, I saw my country Tibet.’ Excerpt from: Personal reconnaissance by Tenzin Tsundue.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Young monks from Yuru gompa, Lamayura, Ladakh After the majority of Gompas (monasteries) in Tibet were destroyed by the Chinese during the 'cultural revolution' Ladakh is home to the most preserved examples of Tibetan tantric buddhism. Today many young tibetans are raised in monastic communities in India where they learn the Tibetan language and a pure form of Tibetan tantric buddhist philosophy

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

After fleeing their home county and settling in India and Nepal, many Tibetans became labourers and road workers. This continued with some second generation TRIE however with increased access to education the cycle is breaking for 3rd generation TRIE.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

“Buddhism is an integral part of Tibetan identity. Even for non-monks, the central precepts form a basic code of ethics for our way of life and the teachings of the Buddha and guidance of his holiness (the Dalai Lama) are what allow us to remain strong, maintain hope and continue to show compassion to our aggressors even in the face of terrible suffering”

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Nawang Nawang escaped Tibet over a decade ago. Alogside his monastic studies and duties he teaches at the Tibetan School in Dharamshala, India. There, students learn the Tibetan language, traditional culture and Buddhist philosophy.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Forbidden face The Chinese government have deemed it illegal to display images of the Dalai Lama, whom it accuses of inciting resistance to and plots against China, anywhere in Tibet. Those who flout this law are arrested, jailed or disappeared.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Lo Sang, a Tibetan monk and refugee in exile. Lo Sang escaped Tibet just over a decade ago. He had to grow is hair long, take off his monastic robes and travel only during the cover of darkness with the help of a Nepali fixer through the Himalayas from Tibet to Nepal. His final destination being Dharamshala in India, home to the Dalai Lama. He came very close to capture and even death along the way, having to be hidden by sympathetic locals and climbing beneath the offices of Chinese police officials, nearly slipping into an adjacent gorge as he did so. Capture would have meant certain arrest, jail and most likely abuse and torture.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Mesib Norbu, former monk, writer and part of Free Tibet movement outside the poetry tea shop he runs in Mcleod Ganj, Himachal Pradesh, India. Norbu was born in Tibet in 1973. He spoke of being a child in Tibet under the rule of Chinese. He was prevented from studying the Tibetan language and buddhist philosophy and forced to learn Chinese as part of their cultural assimilation policies. He finally fled Tibet through the Himalayas on foot for exile in India in 1992. The journey took 4 weeks and had severe repercussions on his health. In India he continued his monastic studies at Kirti Monastery. After repeated bouts of serious illness which affected his monastic duties he disrobed and now writes about his motherland, cultural identity and the Tibetan struggle. “One day we found a driver leaving for Dram, the infamous border town. Until Nyalam, the most notorious checkpoint town, we wore monastic robes but our driver advised us to wear lay clothing to avoid arrest. Before arriving at the checkpoint we were hidden under loads of fabric”

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Exile House The room of Tenzin Tsundue; prominent Tibetan independence activist, poet and writer in Dharamshala, Himachal Pradesh, India. Over the years it has been a hub for Tibetan activists and artists. 'Every night I return to my rented room; but I am not going to die this way, there has got to be, some way out of here. I cannot cry like my room, I have cried enough, in prisons and in small moments of despair, there has got to be, some way out of here. I cannot cry, my room is wet enough.' Excerpt from 'when it rains in Dharamshala' by Tenzin Tsundue

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Dolma Yangchen, president of the Tibetan Women's Association Fighting for the rights of women inside Tibet and also in exile. The organisation supports the preservation traditional culture and language and advocacy for women in exile. 'The most pressing issue facing us as Tibetans now is our dwindling population. We are already a minority in our homeland of Tibet because of Chinese brutality and re-population policies but now also the exile population is floundering so our focus as an organisation is encouraging young Tibetans to procreate.

© Heidi Woodman - Inside Namgyal Monastery in McLeod Ganji, home of the exiled 14th Dalai Lama.
i

Inside Namgyal Monastery in McLeod Ganji, home of the exiled 14th Dalai Lama.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Tibetan settlement, Namrung in Nupri valley Nepal. Nupri valley is home to a Tibetan population who speak exclusively Tibetan dialect wear traditional Tibetan dress (chubas) and live a very preserved example of traditional Tibetan life (grazing yak etc) - more so than is now evident in Tibet itself.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Yak are sacred to Tibetans. Everything they produce is traded or used to sustain their way of life. Milk, also used to make yak butter used their staple Yak butter tea and porridge. Wool for clothing and their manure is burned as fuel and used as insulation.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Women in traditional Tibetan dress (chupas) transporting supplies between high altitude settlements near Sama Goan in Nepal (close to the Tibet border).

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Lho Monastery, sits in the shadow of the great Manaslu (one of the highest 8 peaks in the world) populated almost exclusively by people of Tibetan descent.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

The Tibetans are mountain people. As a race they adapted over many 1000s of years to live at the highest altitudes in the world. Hence why many refugees choose to live their lives in the lap of the Himalayas.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

Facing Rui La The view from the high altitude Tibetan settlement of Samdo in Nepal looking out towards Rui La and the Tibet border. Many Tibetans fled Tibet through here over the years but it is now a tightly controlled crossing run by the Chinese. It is open 15 days a year to natives of the Nupri valley area only.

© Heidi Woodman - Image from the Rangzen photography project
i

“it is the loss of Tibet and its very distance that also awakens us to view patriotism and identity in new ways that are not guided solely by Buddhist philosophy. Self-assertion- an approach avoided in the past because of the Buddhist aspiration to prevent focus on the self- enters our identity as Tibetans.” Tsering Wangmo Dhompa - A Home in Tibet

Latest Projects

Sign up to our weekly newsletter

Stay in the loop


We will send you weekly news on contemporary photography. You can change your mind at any time. We will treat your data with respect. For more information please visit our privacy policy. By ticking here, you agree that we may process your information in accordance with them. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.