In the Realm of the Gods

A Wao Akua, or realm of the gods, encompasses the summit and land surrounding Mauna Kea, on the island of Hawai’i. Kanaka Maoli (Native Hawaiians) believe that it’s inhabited only by spirits; humans were never meant to live there. They consider it the most sacred place on Earth. The summit, at 13,882 feet above sea level, stands above 40% of the Earth’s atmosphere. Weather conditions are extreme, harsh, and constantly changing.

Though this land was never inhabited, it has become a temporary home to many kia’i (protectors), who are preventing construction of the Thirty Meter Telescope at the summit. There’s a complicated history surrounding the existing telescopes and the years-long battle against TMT. Key issues include: the often-ignored rights of indigenous people to control their land; corporations and scientists questioning whether land can be sacred; and the necessity of protecting the unique ecosystem on Mauna Kea, already zoned as conservation land.

The community of kia’i, while predominantly indigenous, includes people of all backgrounds from all over the world. Population at the encampment varied from nearly 7,000 last summer to low double-digits in the winter months. Everyone sacrifices something to be there – work, family obligations – yet Mauna Kea gives back tenfold. The spiritual power of the land is tangible, but the threat of police action looms constantly. The camp was officially closed recently, due to the threat of COVID-19, but everyone is staying vigilant, ready to return at a moment’s notice if necessary.

I went to Mauna Kea intuitively and plan to return once safe travel is possible again. My work often deals with spirituality and human connection to the natural world. As the daughter of a conservation lawyer, efforts to protect land are close to my heart. The kia’i are like family to me now; their determination, resilience, and resolve to protect the sacred has inspired me profoundly. Everyday moments, seasonal ceremonies, and the raw beauty of the land come together in the photographs, offering a glimpse into life in this temporary village, in the realm of the gods.