Por Aquí Todo Bien

Gangs act as the de facto governing authority in places like Rivera Hernandez, a labyrinthine expanse in the outskirts of San Pedro Sula, Honduras' industrial capital. They label areas with numbers or letters, drawing imaginary borders between the communities.

Governments, usually for Political gain, define Central American gangs, such as La Mara Salvatrucha (MS13) or the Barrio 18, as transnational criminal organizations with sophisticated structures, comparing them to drug cartels or mafias.

But while mafias and cartels rely on heavily centralized hierarchical systems, the anatomy of these gangs is highly decentralized. They operate independently with neighborhood-level groups. Their main activities revolve around drug dealing and extortion of residents and businesses, often deploying spectacular levels of violence to build their reputation. But beyond these fearsome tactics lies a loosely organized structure of youths ruling over low-income communities.

In 2018 the photographer established a relationship with teenagers in an 18th Street gang-controlled area. They are made into members, lookouts, civilians, and eventually, old friends who grew up together. Throughout a series of shared experiences and by confronting each other's belief system, both the photographer and the group lived a process of mutual understanding. This exchange, over the years, has built up a bond of mutual trust and emotional intimacy, leading to the creation of a collaborative project.

The resulting series avoids describing the physical details of the subjects' lives, opting for a visual translation of their emotional reality instead. They confront the loss of their friends, a conflicted sense of good and evil as the environment melts their fears and hopes for the future.

"Por Aquí Todo Bien" (translated: all good around here) questions the personal experience of a group of young men as they play with fire and dive into dark waters, all the while still looking at the moon.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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Garrobo, (18). After a party, he fell asleep in a gang safe house when the police raided the place. He is now spending jail time in a maximum-security prison for 18th Street Gang members, Although he is not part of the organization. The Honduran prison system has become an institution for gang recruitment as prisons are divided according to gang membership to minimize violence.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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A view of the area under the 18th Street Gang's domain. The poverty-stricken territories where gangs operate allow them to become an organic presence. They define a gray area with slippery concepts and roles, with no clear lines between victims and perpetrators.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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Kevin (28) and Moises (20) chat on the rooftop of an abandoned complex as a storm is approaching. They recalled that they could move freely and play football in other neighborhoods when they were just kids. At that time, the gangs were not a problem.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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J. showing the hand sign of the 18th Street Gang, he was in charge of the control of the territory. One night, J., together with his pregnant girlfriend, ran away with all the extorsion revenues of the gang. They are now living in an undisclosed location with their newborn.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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The border between 18th Street and Mara Salvatrucha (MS13) controlled areas. "They are good at hiding in the grass," said an 18th Street Gang's member referring it to rival MS13.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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Milton, (18). He recently started going to church. His older brother is a member of the 18th Street Gang and was convicted with 76 years of jail. He is allowed to see him once a year.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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A scorpion walks on the arm of C. (18). C. is now living in an undisclosed location since he fell in love with a gang member's girlfriend. They decided to leave the neighborhood for good.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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A scorpion walks on the arm of C. (18). C. is now living in an undisclosed location since he fell in love with a gang member's girlfriend. They decided to leave the neighborhood for good.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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An 18th Street Gang member holds his weapon. Teenagers in the neighborhood commented how they are used to guns and distinguish the caliber of a weapon when gunfire erupts.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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18th Street Gang's lookouts stand at the border with the rival gang Mara Salvatrucha. A demilitarized zone, where no one lives, lays between the territory under their domain.

© Federico Vespignani - M., an 18th Street Gang member, poses for a portrait. M. recount how the gang always had represented his family.
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M., an 18th Street Gang member, poses for a portrait. M. recount how the gang always had represented his family.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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N. (17) is a lookout for the 18th Street Gang. "I really love being here; it seems all so peaceful," said N. as she was on the top of the hill. She also lamented that she will not be able to move so freely when she will be fully involved in the gang activities.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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Neri, (20). "I think I saw at least twenty of my friends dying here. Some of them because they belonged to the gang others were just innocents. We went to their wakes singing "Ve Con Dios" (Godspeed). It's a beautiful song," said Neri while talking about the neighborhood.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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A gang member shows his domesticated viper. Gang members are usually between 15 and 25 years old. They are recruited since the gang represents one of the few congregation ways among young people.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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Moises (20) walks away from a fire that erupted due to land rights issues. Moises attempted seven times to reach the United States. The first time he was fifteen years old. "I think that this country will never change. It's going to be always like this. This is a country of gangs." said Moises.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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An abandoned construction site in the 18th Street Gang controlled area. D. (20), a hitman of the 18th Street Gang, recounted having recurrent nightmares of being trapped in a house with a woman he killed. The photographer used landscape elements to describe the inner thoughts and emotions shared by different individuals within the group.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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Luis (20). "Sometimes, I feel like we're pawns in a game. God whispers in one of my ears while the devil speaks to me in the other. I try to do good, but something stops me." said Luis.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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Moises (20) stands in a parked bus. "You need to have four eyes in this place. It can look so calm, but suddenly, it can change. You never know what can happen. Someone can kill you just because you live in a place controlled by the gang," said Moises

© Federico Vespignani - A big dead tree stands in the middle of the neighborhood. The tree's trunk is bullet-riddled from various shootings.
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A big dead tree stands in the middle of the neighborhood. The tree's trunk is bullet-riddled from various shootings.

© Federico Vespignani - Image from the Por Aquí Todo Bien photography project
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From left C(18), Kevin (28), Jasson (19), Moises (20) playing at the beach in Puerto Cortez. "We have a mark on our hands, a match burn. We did it because when you are alone in a bad spot, you can watch your hand and remember that you have friends for the rest of your life," said Jasson.

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